I stopped when I realized the difficulty of matching up weathering on adjacent decals and getting them applied to the model EXACTLY so that the weathering would appear seamless. Be that as it may, if you can't find a set of decals to perform similar tricks with, there are some nice artistic ways to represent the tiles with the appropriate amount of subtlety. If I had a real airbrush and was more comfortable in my painting techniques I would try to fade the gray into the white so it would look more realistic like in the photos (the gray should be darker around the outside edges and lighter as you go inward). With the use of the finer sandpaper or sanding sticks you can remove the previously made scratches from the plastic. Then paint the color over it. Anyway, as a precaution, I masked the paint areas around the window and very cautiously applied small amounts of Goo Gone to the affected areas with a sponge stick. http://www.megahobby.com/micromeshpolishingstixset5setspk6pcpkdifferentgritsscalemotorsport.aspx - Link to sanding sticks. As it turns out, the grainy-ness appears in the images as well, so it turned out to be a nice accidental effect. The tape area shows the contrast between the Camo Gray and the Gloss White that I was looking to get on the wings. I really looking forward to the results! Ultimate Bulletin Board 5.47a. And it looks like it did work! Anyone ever have any luck getting replacement parts? I am going to have to break out the brake fluid to strip these and start over again.
This is the hard part, taking a 2D photograph and trying to "flatten" them onto the flat decal shape so that when its applied to the model will be correct. With the polishing kit you'll be able to get it nice and smooth. Hotdog, I wasn't sure if this was gonna fly, until I got the masking tape off and looked at my reference photos.
I haven't used spray adhesive so I don't know what to recommend for removing it safely. I use Meguiar's Plast-X for fine polishing and sometimes use Novus #3 prior to Plast-X. http://www.megahobby.com/micromeshpolishingstixset5setspk6pcpkdifferentgritsscalemotorsport.aspx, Not just one of them hotdog pilots, THE hotdog man himself. The individual tiles would be added to fill in certain spots, like a jigsaw puzzle.
How do I go about getting sandpaper down into such a tiny area and smooth this out? Will that be at the hobby store too or is that a hardware store purchase? Arrgh! Hopefully, with all of us working together, we will come up with some solid techniques that will enable a person to take a well documented path to building a good 1/72 Space Shuttle. As it turns out, I didn't have to mix up a special color.
Arrrghh! Each step to a finer grit will remove the scratches left by the last grit used until it's smooth. This way if any paint seeps under the tape it'll be clear.
In 1/72, the decals fit a lot better, although there were some dimensional issues I had to overcome between the Monogram kit I was using and the Revell kit the decals were designed for (the Monogram kit is slightly narrower in the rear). What you are doing is admirable, and if you pull it off, people will beat a path to your mailbox. You don't need to press hard to get this done so you may not drop the windows inside.
Be careful not to let the tracing paper slip or slide at all while you are drawing your shape. I found mine at the LHS and they came in a book like book matches and they have grits from 3200 up to 12000 and they work really nicely and they are small and easy to control. These are relatively cheap and normally have also several sides to work with. I also think that you may want to try it with careful sanding, from coarse paper up to 1000- wet sand paper. Then use the soft cloth and polishing compound to bring the plastic to it's original luster. There may be some damage to the nearby paint but this can be more easily fixed and resprayed. I agree with Mike and Ralf.
June 23, 2012 in Real Space Modeling, Perhaps one day you can offer a beanie cap correction for all of the orbiters with the wonderful tile detail />. However... After successfully removing the stickum, it appears the spray adhesive did some permanent damage to the two port side windows. I have been very anxious to get this part out of the way: the final painting steps before moving on to the decal and finishing portion of the build. Your link has been automatically embedded. I also use them for practicing some skills so that I am ready for the bigger and more complicated tasks. Exciting stuff!
The technique for making the decals starts with strips of tracing paper, cut out to the approximate size/shape of the area you are making a decal for (but always allow a little extra space). The outside was smooth and shiny. The clear window part on the 1/144 scale kit is a small part. Below are 2 picture of how they looked after they were polished. In my next update I will begin applying the photo decals. When I was painting my shuttle I handled it a lot and left any dirt or grime to add to the effect. But my method (if I ever devote the time to doing it) will be to lay on strips of styrene cross scribed to do about 10 to 20 tiles at a time on the flat bits. To the paint question I also can suggest that this comes with experience and I work with small amounts until I get the colour right.
You just start with the coarsest grit and work your way up to the finest grit. The hardest part was sanding the engines smooth to represent the SSME mock-ups. This was effective in removing the adhesive stickum. With the wings masked off, it was time to test the rattle can airbrush on some spare styrene I had sitting around. Next time use a tooth pick to remove the masking. I found these decals but it is not quite what you are looking for because I do not see the complete tile decals.
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